Cyclops Speedo Sewing Pattern

Supplies:

Step 1: Prepare Your Fabric

- Prewash fabric

- Let the fabric relax on the table for 15-30 minutes before cutting

- Fold fabric in half with right sides together

- Ensure the greatest stretch goes in the direction marked on the pattern

Step 2: Cut Your Pieces

- Pin or weight pattern pieces to fabric

- Don’t forget also to weigh the rest of the fabric yard so it doesn’t pull

- Iron/press so it’s flat and even

- Trace the pattern of X onto Wonder-Under (it should be backwards)

- Cut the general outline of X, leaving about a ½  inch border.

- Cut notches as marked on the pattern to help align X on the speedo

- Press (no steam) onto the wrong side of the blue fabric for 6-8 seconds. This will vary based on fabrics

- Cut out X and place the wrong side of the blue X to the right side of the yellow front piece, lining up notches

- Place a pressing cloth over the blue X and press with an iron for 15 seconds.

- Remove pressing cloth and iron out any excess moisture, and let cool

Alt: You can use basting spray to adhere fabric, then use a water soluble iron-on stabilizer onto the back of the  YELLOW fabric 

Step 3: Appliqué

- Set stitch length to 1, width to 1.5, and standard tension for your machine (mine's at 4)

- Zig-zag stitch  along the edge of the blue X

- When going around corners: stitch just past where you'll turn the seam, backstitch, lift up the presser foot (Make sure the needle is down into the fabric before you turn!), stitch forward a couple of seams, backstitch, then continue 

Step 4: Front Panel Assembly

- Fold front piece in half, right sides together

- Stitch center front seam with zig-zag stitch, then top stitch down:

- Start with 1/4" seam at the bottom

- Gradually decrease to 1/8" at top

- Leave 1/2" thread tail at top

Step 5: Side Seams

- Match front and back pieces at side seams

- Align notches and baste with stitch or tape

- Zig zag Stitch sides with right sides together at 1/4" , then top stitch seam allowance down with zig zag stitch set at 0 

Step 6: Crotch Seam

- Match front and back crotch seams

- Stitch with right sides together

- Then top-stitch the seam allowance down, facing the back piece.

Step 7: Elastic Installation

- Cut the elastic to the length needed for waist

- Divide the elastic into 4 equal sections, mark with pins

- Divide the swimsuit waist into 4 equal sections

- Match pins and attach elastic while stretching (Make sure you pre-stretch your elastic and give it time to settle again - around 10 min)

- With a straight stitch at length of 4 and tension at 3, baste the waistband to the wrong side of the fabric, fold over the waistband inside so the elastic is not visible. 

- Pin the elastic and mark on the front where the edge of the elastic is underneath. Top Stitch down along edge of elastic with zig zag stitch  width of .5

- Repeat the same process for each leg opening

   - Start elastic at the side seam area

   - Stretch elastic while sewing

 Common Beginner Mistakes to Watch For

- Not stretching the elastic enough while attaching

- Forgetting to use ballpoint needle

- Cutting without washing fabric or letting fabric relax 

- Using wrong direction of stretch